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Marklin-Eddie Offline
#1 Posted : 21 January 2012 18:55:11(UTC)
Marklin-Eddie

Joined: 08/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
Location: Deventer Netherlands
I have the Canon EOS 5D full frame (first one, withouth the movie function)a canon 24-105 lens, 1.4 f5.6 and a 580 EX speedlite flasher.
Do you have some tips for making good foto's of my Märklin rolling stock?BigGrin
Thanks!
Kind regards, Eddie
DigitalNZ Offline
#2 Posted : 21 January 2012 19:53:21(UTC)
DigitalNZ

New Zealand   Joined: 13/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 101
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Hi Eddie,

The best thing in my opinion about a digital camera is that if a photo doesn't turn out you can see immediately and re-take it instead of paying to have a bad photo printedCursing . While I haven't used a 5D my slef (as much as I would like to) here are a few basic tips that may be of use.

1. If you haven't got a tripod, invest in one. You'll never regret it for being able to keep the camera steady and at the desired height.

2. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode (Av) so you can stop down to achieve the desired depth of field. Really depends on whether you are shooting straight on to the rolling stock or whether you are on an angle to it. Focus somewhere in the middle and let DOF do the rest. Use the DOF preview by the lens to check first if you wish.

3. Use the lowest ISO rating you possibly can to keep noise down and have a clearer image. (hence the tripod as you may have some long exposures)

4. Be weary of using The flash as it can create unwanted and unrealistic shadows and burn out detail. Perhaps use it off the camera or use a lamp and adjust your white balance accordingly. (I've got an old 533g Speedlight from the 80's that I use on the 550D in Manual Mode but not for model photography!)

5. Perspective is important. Try to shoot what your scale people could see. See this article http://modeltrain.serveh...layout.nsf/1/photography

6. Have fun. There's no point in doing this if you can't enjoy it!BigGrin

7. Feel free to post images on here for all to view. It's always great so see other peoples interests in modeling and experimenting with technique.

Kind regards,

Daniell
Webmaster Offline
#3 Posted : 21 January 2012 20:15:30(UTC)
Webmaster

Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 6,871
Direct flash is usually not a good idea for model railroad photography...

Better to use a kind of lighting setup with several static light sources and use a tripod as Daniell says...

Some kind of remote control is also great for tripod operation, or use the timer.


The 5D is capable of making great shots also in dimmer light conditions, as intruder has shown several times in the forum.
A great camera indeed.

Edited by user 22 January 2012 20:58:33(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
intruder Offline
#4 Posted : 21 January 2012 22:09:14(UTC)
intruder

Norway   Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,054
Location: Akershus, Norway
Hi Eddie and welcome to this fantastic forum!

As an owner of a EOS 5D mk1 I can say that it is a great camera.

When I take pictures of my models I either use my EF 100mm f/2,8L macro or, if the room permits it, the EF 200mm f/2,8L.
In other words, I try to shoot from as far away as possible. Your EF 24-105mm f/4L will do a perfect job at 105mm.
I always use a very sturdy tripod.

Two advantages by shooting from a distance is the background and perspective control, and the light control.
Your flash is very powereful, so I think it will bw OK if directed towards a white ceiling or a wall behind you.
If directed towards a white ceiling, I would also use a white reflector from below the model.

In some cases, when shooting from a distance, a direct flash may work OK, but I would use one or two f-stops smaller than the camera metering says, by shooting in manual mode, e.g. 1/60sec and f/5,6 or f/8. f/8 will of course also make the depth of field better.

I make my best shots on a slightly clouded day, in the conservatory connected to our house, with three glass walls and a transparent roof.
In ambient ligh I use ISO200. Noise is normally no issue with the EOS 5D, due to the sensor size and the distance between the pixles.

My best advice: shoot and try!

Edited by user 21 January 2012 22:18:48(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Best regards Svein
member of MFDWPL for some more months
www.saebonet.com
Marklin-Eddie Offline
#5 Posted : 22 January 2012 13:17:55(UTC)
Marklin-Eddie

Joined: 08/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5
Location: Deventer Netherlands
Thank you all for your answer!
By the way,I can`t find a introdution page on this forum were I can introduce myself.
Maybe I overlooked............Confused
Thanks!
Kind regards, Eddie
pab Offline
#6 Posted : 22 January 2012 14:52:36(UTC)
pab

Netherlands   Joined: 03/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,964
Hi Eddie, welcome

The 5D is a great camera.

You already had a number of good tips.
I will add some of mine

Avoid the use of a flash. I you can't without use a reduced light on your flash (manual settings 1/32, 1/64 or 1/128) and an omnibounce. Never direct the flash to the subject, but use the ceiling or a wall (must be white)or a reflection screen.

Better to use a long exposure time and the available light in the room.
You absolutely need a tripod.
To avoid movement of the camera use a remote control or, if you don't have one, your timer.

Use a reflection screen to direct the avilable light to the darker spots. Any large piece of thick white paper of styropor will do.

Your 5D has no life view, so an anglefinder might be handy. That way you you can look through the viewer from above.

Use manual settings (aperture and exposure) on your camera.

Set your autofocus to a single point (the central point). Use single focus, single shot. That gives you more control.

Think about what you want to show. Large aperture (low number), small part sharp. Small aperture, larger part of the picture sharp.
You can play with those values to make a better picture.

Think about the rule of thirds for your composition or other rules for a composition, not always a must, but it can be helpfull (read something about compositions)
I mostly use my standard lens (15 - 85 mm) or a 100 mm macro lens. I seldom use my 70 - 200 mm lens for two reasons, the minimum required distance and 200 mm flattens your image (less depth).
Think about what you want to tell with your picture. A pictures with a large amount of objects is mostly more boring than a picture with one or two highlighted objects.

Use the highest possible settings for the quality (super fine) and resolution (300 dpi) of your pictures and maybe think about taking pictures in raw format. Use always a low ISo setting (max 400).

Practise a lot and have fun.
With kind regards
Piet Brijs
Website: http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~pabrijs
Topic in Marklin-users.net: http://www.marklin-users.../topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8363
river6109 Offline
#7 Posted : 22 January 2012 20:51:35(UTC)
river6109

Australia   Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7,471
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Hi Eddy,

Welcome to the forum

To introduces yourself go to NMR: Who we are, members presentation

John
http://www.youtube.com/river6109
http://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
rjftrains Offline
#8 Posted : 29 February 2012 03:55:58(UTC)
rjftrains

Joined: 14/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 54
Location: Katonah, NY
The Canon 100mm macro lenses are awesome. I have both the 100mm/f2.8 and the newer 100mm/f2.8L and they really are great for this type of photography. The shorter macros force you to get too close to the subject, and the 180mm is just too long, heavy and slow to use w/o a tripod. But the 100mm is perfect. If anyone is interested in this lens, I have the original Canon macro 100mm/f2.8 for sale -- hardly used and in absolutely perfect condition (used just a few times). Contact me via my e-mail address if interested.
Robert Frowenfeld
RJFtrains@aol.com
www.RJFtrains.com
914-232-5546
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